The global skincare market represents a multi-hundred-billion-dollar industry, with continued growth projected over the coming decade. A significant portion of this growth is driven by physiciandispensed products, including those sold through plastic surgery centres, dermatology clinics and other professional channels. The surge in consumer demand is largely fuelled by social media, the rise in e-commerce, increased disposable incomes and a growing cultural focus on anti-aging treatments and natural products. It could also be argued that there is a genuine interest in ‘feeling good’ about one’s appearance and image, especially with growing access to self-treatment options that carry minimal safety risks.
Social media is helping to amplify unverified claims and pseudo-scientific marketing, leading to a decline in consumers’ confidence in the benefits of cosmetic treatments, especially given the high cost of many skincare products. At the same time, AI and digital skin diagnostics are giving rise to a new sector focused on hyperpersonalised product recommendations and real-time analysis of treatment outcomes. Many of these new, advanced technologies now enable early detection of issues such as dehydration, ultraviolet radiation (UV) damage, and even smartphone cameras can detect pigmentation. Skincare companies are increasingly recognising that a one-size-fitsall approach is increasingly ineffective, as skin types vary widely based on factors such as age, ethnicity, sun exposure and hydration. This has fuelled a demand for personalised skincare solutions. Emerging visualisation technologies are further enhancing this shift by offering users more sophisticated interaction with skincare brands.
In this increasingly complex landscape, robust biological and translational models are essential for objectively evaluating product performance and supporting the development of safe and effective skincare solutions. This article explores the range of models used to investigate key aspects of skin health and treatment.
Applications of Skin Modelling in Cosmetic Science: Understanding UV Damage and Sun Protection
Ultraviolet radiation (UV) has complex and mixed effects on human health. It benefits human health by mediating natural synthesis of vitamin D and endorphins in the skin, but too much UV exposure can lead to ageing, wrinkles, and skin cancer. UV radiation can be classified as a “complete carcinogen” as it can function as both a tumour initiator and a tumour promoter.
There are three different types of UV: UVA, UVB, and UVC. Most ultraviolet A rays (UVA) reach the earth’s surface, as the earth’s atmosphere provides little shielding. The atmosphere does shield most ultraviolet B rays (UVB), and it absorbs ultraviolet C rays (UVC) completely. Both UVA and UVB stimulate the skin’s melanocytes to produce the pigment called melanin, which darkens the skin or produces ‘a tan’. Tanning is your body’s attempt to protect itself from being damaged by UV radiation. But too much exposure to UVA and/or UVB can result in premature aging, increased risk of skin cancer, damage to the immune system, and eye damage. Completely avoiding the sun is a very difficult task, which has created a huge industry in sun protection and treatments for overexposure.
